Quetzaltenango ranks second in size, industry and as a cultural and trading center to Guatemala. It was founded by Pedro de Alvarado on the site known to the Quiches as XELAJUJ, from which the famous song 'Luna de Xelajú' derives its name. The city has preserved its colonial style layout....

Quetzaltenango ranks second in size, industry and as a cultural and trading center to Guatemala. It was founded by Pedro de Alvarado on the site known to the Quiches as XELAJUJ, from which the famous song 'Luna de Xelajú' derives its name. The city has preserved its colonial style layout. Part of it is built on a hill, so that transiting through its streets implies going up- and downhill and the overall effect is charming. There are particularly outstanding examples of buildings constructed in the neoclassical style. Among these is the City Hall, complete with Corinthian capitals on its columns. The Municipal Theater is decorated with busts of local artists and scholars.

One of the top draws to Quetzaltenango, or 'Xela,' as the Guatemalans call it, is the wide range of top-quality Spanish schools. There are dozens to choose from and many are quite good. This gives the town a surprisingly cosmopolitan feel. On any Friday, walk into a bar and see the groups of international students and their Guatemaltecan teachers celebrating the end of the school week.

The schools are an excellent value. Most charge US$125-175/week for 25 hours of one-on-one instruction and a homestay with a local family. The best way to find one? Show up in Xela and collect recommendations from other foreigners. Then pound the pavement: go to the schools in person, and pick the one with the best teachers or extracurricular program. 

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